A Cruise or a Crossing?

Queen Elizabeth 2
A Cruise or a Crossing by John C. McMichan

Cunard Postcard

Queen Elizabeth 2, or QE2 as she is more familiarly known, was launched in 1967 and commenced commercial service in 1969. In August 1999, soon after her thirtieth birthday, my wife and I sailed on her again, our fourth time. Previous voyages were cruises to the Caribbean, to West Africa and to Bermuda. However, this voyage was to be different - a crossing rather than a cruise. What differences would we find? Would the Queen seem changed? Would the staff behave differently? All would be revealed as we left New York on the warm and sunny afternoon of August 16^th.

Boarding proceeded without a flaw. Courtesy of Cunard Line, we had spent the previous night in a New York Hotel to avoid the overnight flight from Arizona. From the hotel bus, we entered the pre-boarding area of the pier, our papers were inspected, credit card imprint taken and a steward/escort assigned to take us to our cabin. Within an hour, our luggage was delivered and we settled into cabin 3175 on 3 Deck. Ahead of us was a 6-day crossing of the Atlantic Ocean to Southampton in England. But first things first! We had not had lunch and so we headed to the Queen's Room for the traditional white-glove afternoon tea. A variety of small sandwiches and cakes accompanied by a choice of teas or coffee was served by friendly waiters while light classical music filled in the background. To us, the ship already had the British touch we remembered and we were happy.

Under a clear sky and in warm sunshine, the QE2 surrounded by many small boats carrying interested onlookers, moved out from the pier into the Hudson River.

Farewell Manhattan!

With a major refurbishment scheduled for the end of 1999, it was possible that QE2 could be looking somewhat tired. And there were areas that were obviously in need of urgent repair - carpet on stairs worn in a few places, soiled patches, couches with collapsed cushions, marks on walls and faded curtains. But the overall impression was of successful maintenance during the four years since her last and famously disastrous overhaul. The hotel staff were diligent in their cleaning, straightening and tidying. The areas in need of attention were not significant enough to spoil the overall impression of an elegantly mature lady of the sea.

Oliver and Juile-Ann

The two waiters were responsible for the eating pleasure of twenty passengers, a formidable task that they handled with elegance and expertise. Their task was made easier by the single seating arrangement as dinner could be taken anytime from 6.45pm - 9 pm. So there was no great rush of hungry passengers when the doors to the dining room opened. The wine stewardess was from Poland and she quietly and efficiently attended to our drinking needs. Our table was reserved for us for all three meals. Table service was immaculate. Fresh flowers, white table linen, bone china, sparkling crystal and shining silver complemented delicious food freshly plated and brought to the table piping hot. Sadly, tableside cooking of desserts was missing. The menus contained sufficient choices for the most discerning diner and the portions were adequate and tastefully arranged on the plate. There were special choices for those desirous of reducing calorie and sugar intake. We had no complaints about the Caronia Restaurant, only compliments for all who worked there. During the forthcoming refit, the restaurant will be totally redecorated. The colour scheme will be terra cotta and peach. A new domed ceiling will be installed along with mahogany wall panels. New wooden dining chairs and overhead chandeliers will complete the effect.

However, the daylight that entered there did not penetrate to the sleeping area and could not be enjoyed while in bed! Thus we were denied the pleasure of sipping early morning tea in bed while watching the sea slide by. Despite this disappointment, we were pleased with our cabin attendant, who was from the Philippines.

He kept everything spic and span. He catered to our every wish and was very pleasant. Like our table stewards, he learnt our names very quickly and addressed us formally every time we met. No request from us was too much for him.

With no interruption from ports-of-call, we quickly fell into a daily routine of activities. The Cruise Department offered much in the way of diversions, but there was no pressure to join in. Many chose to wile away the hours with a favourite book or a nap in a quiet corner of one of the many lounges. For others, there were lectures, classes, games on deck, demonstrations and movies. The after-dinner entertainment was mediocre and unremarkable. The Gershwin music theme of the crossing was underdeveloped and almost passed without recognition. This was a disappointment for many Gershwin fans. For me, the favourite location was the superb maritime bookshop and library on Quarter Deck. The three best events were lectures given my a marine interior design enthusiast from the famous Sotheby's Auction House, lectures given by the Senior Co-pilot of British Airways Concorde program and the passenger trivia quiz. For exercise, I walked the Boat Deck in the morning. To make up for the lost weight, I took afternoon tea in the Queens Room!

The first two days out from New York were mild and sunny. We were able to take full advantage of the open decks and fresh sea air. I still find it disappointing that Cunard has not replaced the ugly aluminium and plastic deck chairs with the traditional padded teak variety. As we headed further east, the daytime temperatures fell and we confronted some storms. With her liner bow, stabilisers and deep draft, the QE2 took the waves in her stride just as an Atlantic liner should. The average speed for the crossing was 25.1 knots ( a reduction of 2 – 3 knots since the crossing time has been lengthened), but I noted on the cabin TV speeds in excess of 26 knots for hours on end. At one stage, we met rough seas and a Force 8 gale. This is equivalent to a head-on wind velocity of 35 knots and so, combined with the ship’s forward motion, gusts of over 60 knots were lashing the decks. Apart from keeping the passengers indoors, the Queen continued on course, unruffled. The winds abated and the seas calmed for our last day on board. During the early hours of the sixth morning, we took on the Solent pilot and were tied up at Southampton by sunrise.

Disembarkation was simple and trouble free. British Immigration and Customs formalities had been handled by officials on board during the crossing. With our luggage collected on the previous evening, all we had to do was have breakfast in the Caronia Restaurant and then wait in one of the lounges until our group number was called. We had arranged for a rental car to be available on the pier and we headed off for our tour of Scotland by 9 am. Others had elected to take the “fast track”, which meant that they would be in the first group going ashore, but would have to handle their own luggage. Still others boarded coaches or a version of the Oriental Express for the journey to London.

Now to answer the question posed at the beginning – was it a cruise or a crossing? Truthfully, I found little difference from our previous times on the QE2. There was more formality - four formal nights. Otherwise, we could have been on a cruise with six days at sea between ports. The staff did not share my view. Talking with members of the Cruise Department, I learnt of harder work for them with the passengers on board all day, every day, with a full entertainment program and little time for themselves. They spoke of the history and tradition of a crossing and how they tried to re-inforce these with the passengers. They noticed less tiredness and more camaraderie among the passengers.

Whether it is for a crossing or a cruise, I will continue to enjoy my days aboard QE2 and I am looking forward to the launch of her running mate, the QM2, said to be another true Atlantic liner.